| Avoiding Wildlife Problems
Managing
Skunk Problems  Many people consider skunks odorous,
obnoxious pests that should be avoided at all costs. However, these animals
have some beneficial habits; they kill insects and rodents. The striped
skunk (Mephitis mephitis) is the most common species in California, although
the smaller spotted skunk (Spilogale putorius) can be a local problem
around dwellings. The striped skunk is a house-cat sized animal (4 -10
Ibs.) that has long black fur with two variable broad white stripes down
the back. The head is triangular; the tail large and bushy. The strong
musk characteristic of skunks is expelled from two scent glands near the
anus.
Biology Skunks are nocturnal, preferring
to hunt at night for insects, small rodents, carrion, poultry, eggs, nestling
birds, fruit, pet food, and garbage. Because they are active at night,
many people never see the animals as they travel through their neighborhood,
even in areas with a large skunk population. Skunks will use any sheltered
place as a den, including wood piles, animal burrows, culverts, under
houses, decks, and sheds. Breeding may begin as early as January, but
usually occurs during February and March. Males are viciously competitive
for females, and bred females will attack males attempting to breed with
them. One or both animals frequently spray during this intra-specific
aggression. Litters are born 9 weeks after conception, with an average
of 4 - 8 young. The young skunks stay with the female for several months,
but usually begin to disperse by mid to late summer.
Damage Skunks become a problem when their
activities conflict with human interests. When skunks take shelter under
homes, decks, or in garages, their presence is not usually tolerated by
occupants of the building. All skunks have the ability to discharge a
nauseating musk from their anal glands. They are capable of spraying their
musk several times with accuracy to about 10 feet. Confrontation with
pets often results in the pet being sprayed or bitten. Skunks can also cause severe damage
to gardens and lawns by their digging activities. While searching for
grubs and other subsoil insects, skunks frequently uproot turf and other
plants. This damage consists of small pits ranging from 3 to 5 inches
across, or sometimes large sections of sod are rolled back. Skunks are predators and can decimate
ground-nesting wild bird populations and local populations of endangered
species of small mammals. In addition, skunks can cause significant economic
losses to egg/poultry raisers.
Disease Skunks are the primary carrier
of rabies in California. Approximately 65 percent of the skunks checked
for rabies tested positive for the disease during the past 5 years. Rabies
is a viral disease that is fatal in mammals, including man and domestic
animals (dogs, cats, livestock). It is transmitted by the bite of an infected
animal. Rabies is preventable in man and domestic animals through routine
vaccination but is not curable after onset of symptoms. Vaccines developed
for domestic animals have not proven to be reliable in preventing rabies
in wildlife. Cailifornia wildlife species have shown an overall increase
of 7% in confirmed cases of rabies from 1978 through 1988. In addition
to rabies, skunks can curry leptospirosis, listeriosis, canine distemper,
canine hepatitis, Q-fever, tularemia, and trypanosoma. They are also heavily
infested with ticks, fleas, and mites which are known carriers and transmitters
of disease.
Problem Prevention Skunks are often attracted to
residential areas by the availability of food, water, and shelter. They
can be encouraged to leave by reducing or eliminating these attractants. Remove unused pet food and water
bowls at night, and keep tight fitting lids on garbage cans. Store pet
food in animal proof containers. Gardens should be harvested frequently
and windfall fruit picked up. Food should never be intentionally left
out for wild mammals. Seal up entry holes in and under
buildings and decks. Keep pet access doors locked. Slotted metal vent
covers are preferable to screen wire in keeping skunks from entering houses
through foundation vents. Low backyard decks have proven to be extremely
attractive shelters for skunks. They may be excluded by using 1/4 inch
grid screening or solid metal flashing. Trench around the perimeter of
the deck a minimum of 12 inches deep, insert screening in trench and backfill.
Attach top of screening to facade of deck with nails or fence post staples.
This technique may also be used along fence lines to prevent skunks from
entering yards and gardens. Before completing final seal on the last entry
point on a building or deck, it is wise to make sure no animals are trapped
inside. On the night before completing
repairs sprinkle flour in the entrance hole, and check for tracks the
following morning. If no tracks are evident for 3 consecutive nights,
no animals are likely present. You may wish to make a temporary one-way
exit using 1/4 inch grid screening. Form the screening into a cone or
funnel shape. The large end should be sized to encircle the entry hole
and be attached over the hole to the facade of the deck or building with
nails or fence post staples. The small end should face away from the building
and be 4 to 6 inches in diameter so that skunks can squeeze out of the
hole but not re-enter. Skunks causing lawn and turf damage
may be encouraged to leave by controlling grub worms and other subsoil
insects. Chemicals to control these insects may be obtained at hardware
or garden supply stores. Poultry and egg losses may be
eliminated by proper fencing and by keeping well maintained, secure coops.
Exclusion
of skunks from coops and poultry yards is usually the most practical and
effective method to prevent losses. At night, poultry should be kept in
skunk-proof sheds or houses. Ideally, poultry should be confined both
day and night in a sturdy house combined with a predator-proof outdoor
run area. This also provides protection from many other types of predators.
Usually skunks are not inclined to break through material such as chicken
wire which is intact and in reasonably good condition. Entry is usually
made through open, weak or loose places in fences or buildings. Skunks
are excellent diggers and may try to gain entry by digging under fences.
Following is a check list of measures you can use to protect poultry from
skunks:
-
Cover
outdoor runs with wire mesh and/or suitable paneling material and
fasten securely. If this is not practical, shut poultry indoors at
night.
-
Patch
or repair all holes or weak places in existing wire or wood coops
or runs.
-
Check
all edges of overlapping or stapled chicken wire for tightness, and
tie or staple securely.
-
Check
ground edges of coop for tightness. You may need to bury fencing to
a minimum depth of 12 inches.
-
Coop
doors should be close fitting and sturdy. Beware of plywood doors
which may have substantial warp at corners.
-
To
prevent skunks from reaching in and grabbing poultry, night roosting
or standing areas should be at least 12 inches away from cracks or
wire mesh that is more than 3/4 inch square in spacing. Smaller size
wire can be installed near roosting areas.
-
Other
birds housed in wire or plastic cages should be kept within skunk-proof
buildings at night. An alternative solution is to hang or suspend
cages from ceilings at least 4 feet above the floor and 5 feet away
from walls or fences.
Direct Control Shooting and live trapping can
be used to remove skunks from rural areas. In urban settings, live trapping
with baited 10x12x32 inch cage traps is the most desirable method. When
trapping for skunks with an open grid cage trap, it is a good idea to
cover the top, bottom, and sides of the trap with heavy cardboard or 1/4
inch plywood. This reduces the chance that the person picking up the trap
will be sprayed. The trap should be placed in the area of greatest skunk
activity or near a suspected entry point. Do not place traps under a building
or deck. This does not increase trap success, but it does greatly increase
the chance of getting sprayed. Preferred baits for trapping skunks include
raw whole egg, peanut butter, sardines, raw chicken parts, or pet food. There are no Federally registered
pesticides for control of skunks in or around buildings.
Odor Individual reaction to skunk musk
ranges from mild irritation to severe headache, nausea, vomiting, and
burning of eyes and nostrils. No diseases are known to be transmitted
through the musk. Skunk musk on clothing, outdoor furniture and other
objects may be neutralized by a strong detergent washing followed by the
liberal use of vinegar or household ammonia and a final rinse. Airing
these articles on hot, sunny days will also help. To deodorize in or under
buildings: maximize ventilation and place cotton balls saturated with
a few drops of a strong commercial deodorizer, or Neutroleum alpha, or
oil of wintergreen to give favorable results. To
remove musk sprayed on pets, first rinse the eyes gently with clear
water, bathe with a "No Tears" shampoo taking special care
around the eyes, then rinse with clear water. You may wish to rinse
the pet with tomato juice or a dilute solution of
vinegar and water. If you take this extra step, you must then shampoo
and rinse the pet again. This treatment may need to be repeated.
You may
use any over-the-counter eye drops as a final soothing eye treatment.
If your pet was bitten by the skunk, take it immediately to your
veterinarian.
Laws and Regulations California
state law does not classify skunks as endangered or threatened, nor
as furbearers or game
animals. There is no season or bag limit on skunks. It is against California
state law for any wildlife to be kept as pets. Only authorized
wildlife rehabilitators may keep injured or orphaned wildlife, and then
only for limited periods of time. California Fish and Game regulations
prohibit the relocation of skunks and other wildlife without written
permission of the Department. For further information on the legal status
of skunks and other wildlife, contact your California Fish and Game Regional
Office. For further information or assistance
in solving skunk problems contact your local agricultural commissioner. |